Home »Weekend Magazine » KARACHI CHRONICLE: Booming fashion business

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  • Dec 8th, 2012
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Women's designer fashions is said to be a billion dollar enterprise. Yes, dollars (though the billion is somewhat metaphorical), since there is a huge international demand for Pakistani-style partywear. Our fashion designers are catering to expats in the Middle East and to thousands of former Pakistanis, Indians and Bangladeshis who are now citizens in the USA, Canada, Australia and UK.

In western countries everyone wears western style casuals, but for parties, weddings and festivals they like to dress in traditional shirt, shalwar or trousers and dupatta. I am informed, some Pakistani designers have even opened small outlets abroad where their outfits sell like hot cakes.

Another piece of information is that Arab women, Hollywood film stars, fashion models and other celebrities are also attracted to Pakistani styles and buy them. That explains two things about current fashions that has puzzled me. The ankle length shirts cut like the dishdash worn by Arabs could be a ploy to attract Arab buyers. The nearly topless gown-like designs could be a ploy to capture Americans and British buyers. These styles look so out of place in the Pakistani scenario, but they are the piece de resistance on the catwalk at our fashion shows.

Don't ask me the price of these costumes. Since locally they cost a bomb, abroad they must cost an atom bomb, undoubtedly. Of course, Indian fashion designers have also cornered the international market, but by all reports Pakistani designers outsell the Indians. The reason is better cut, gorgeous trims and embroidery, which our karigar (skilled needle workers) are supreme, and, especially, the quality of prints and fabric.

With the exception of good quality cottons, the fabric our designers use is imported: made in China and Japan, purchased in Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Jeddah are some other places from where quality cloth is purchased. In the Middle East they can get Swiss cotton and French chiffon.

The marketing skill of Chinese and Japanese is admirable. Once they realised the demand for their fabrics in Pakistan, they began to manufacture cloth for the three-piece Pakistani outfit: matching shalwar-kameez and dupatta with suitable prints. They were well aware of social custom and never ever supplied unstitched three-piece suits with animal motifs or human figures printed on them as these would not sell in a Muslim country.

Lahore and Karachi are the main centres of fashion houses, boutiques and designer studios. Though Lahore started the trend for readymade clothes, they lacked good fashion designers. Today, however, Lahore fashion designers are as good, some even better, as the Karachiwalas. But nearly all the big names in fashion designing known nation-wide and internationally are based in Karachi. Designer bridalwear was, and probably still is, Karachi's forte. In Lahore they were quick to copy but it was traders and shopkeepers who made bridalwear. These lacked sophistication and looked garish and over embellished with gold and silver and sequins. Designer bridalwear is also in demand internationally, but the truly great designers do not produce readymade costumes for brides. It is always made-to-order, "bespoke", as they say in fashion jargon.

Who go to the shows during fashion week in Karachi? If you think it is only fashionable females with loads of money to spend, you are mistaken. There are a lot of men at the shows, but do not imagine they come to watch the models on the catwalk, though, I am sure, for any male looking at those beautiful girls is a bonus. Their reason is serious. They have made it a business to buy designer outfits to sell abroad. In the male audience there are also marketing specialists and fashion designers, too. Pakistani textile industry keeps itself up-to-date about fashion trends and manufactures to suit current fashions. For instance, if pastle shades are in vogue they will not manufacture cloth in autumnal shades. If embroidery is the rage, embroidered goods will be produced, and so forth.

I do not care to wear trendy clothes, and it is not just because I am old. Current fashions are not elegant, they are too colourful, exuberant and showy. But I wholeheartedly support and give three cheers for Pakistani fashion business because it is also a culture statement. Whenever anybody says Pakistan is a nation of fanatics, I can produce a fashion magazine and show them pictures of gorgeous girls in fabulous sleeveless and backless dress. Is this possible in a fundo-dominated society? I don't know of a more convincing counter to their criticism. Those who love this country and hate the engineered bad press it is getting, should keep a glossy fashion magazine on hand to shave under the noses of the critics.

Copyright Business Recorder, 2012


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