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Machi!! Machi wala!! These selling cries of Karim Mallah I hear every day in the morning as he is a regular visitor of my native city Sanghar. He sells fish - local fish.

Makhi is north-eastern part of Sanghar and is better known for its historical background, thick forests, honey, farmlands, reptiles, amphibians, migratory birds and wildlife. But its wetlands do offer opportunities for picnic and numerous varieties of fish.

A one-hour drive from Sanghar city to its north-eastern part leads you to Makhi. The settlement here goes back to centuries. The majority of the population is of Hurs - the spiritual followers of Pir Pagara and activists of Hur movement. The movement started under the leadership of Pir Syed Sabgutullah Shah, father of Pir Pagara. The movement took part actively in the struggle of Pakistan. In 1942 under Angraiz Sarkar Martial Law a battle was fought between English Army and Hur followers at Harni Bhit. The region was always rich in bird life and fish.

There are about 200 small and large lakes around Makhi area mainly Bakaar, Nooghroon, Sairi, and Vadhki, all watered by Nara and Ranto canals. The twin outlets irrigate a vast area of Sanghar. These locations offer absolutely unique holiday opportunities. It is a pity that very few people know about these destinations which are equally loaded with opportunities as its other rivals like Keenjhar, Haleji and Manchar lakes of Sindh. When I compare these waters with Keenjhar`s, where some time ago I visited during my cadet life in Cadet College Petaro on a college tour, I found Makhi waters equally tempting as of Keenjhar.

The only difference is that it has been less publicised by tourist department. One reason why recreational fishing remains less popular is because the government bodies have not actively promoted the sport. The resort is blessed with unusual amount of open space, greenery, and sand dunes. However, roads are not paved and lit well. Visitors can fish, bathe and enjoy the serenity of lakes area or simply go for a boating holiday.

The area's fish is well known for its distinctive varieties. Surprisingly over 25 different species of fish are abundantly found in Makhi waters. Edible fish found in these lakes are Kur`ro, Morakho, Thairi, Daahi, Sarhiyo, Sani, Chito, Shakur, Maido, Rido, Khago, Singaari, Jarko, Gandan and Dev. The prestigious quality of Kur`ro - Rohu fish of these lakes has made Sanghar a renowned city for its delicious and unique taste. Also the boneless varieties of Shakur and Chito make up the two other fishing favourites of the area.

Other kinds of fish here are Lahar, Goj, Pali, Gagro, Karail, Maro, Gaair, Goonch, Malir, Takar, lasri, Phaho and Chili. These species are of inferior quality. Larger fish feed mainly on these smaller varieties. They are also used in making the artificial poultry and fish feed.

The culinary experience is absolutely delicious. Fish fry, fish curry, fish kebabs, fish-potato curry, fish-lady fingers curry, fish Sijji, fish Biryani, fish pakoras, fish koftas, are just some of the promotional dishes that would be an offer. Its abalone dishes are superlative if cooked in extracted Kur`ro-oil.. Mola Buksh Mallah, a local fisherman, is considered a fish-expert of the area. Come winter time and he plans to set up a fish outlet. Over 20 dishes he can make, he claims. His prepared dishes will excite your taste bud, that's what it is guaranteed!

The locals consider Kur`ro to have medicinal qualities. Consumption of Vah (oil of Aani) is thought to protect against T.B. Kur`ros teeth are worn by chitti (fungal disease) patients. Fish provide many useful products as well. The Kur`ro-oil is used to manufacture soap. Interestingly, Aani is also watered to mango trees to prolific fruit yield. It is also used as glue for the repairing and bonding of boats.

Fishing is the main industry of the Makhi area. Fish catch is rushed to Sanghar by truck/pick-up twice a day. Huge blocks of ice are used while exporting the fish. Fish is brought in old ice factory in Sanghar, where it is sent to local fish market and export quality is sent to Karachi and other parts of the country on same day. Sanghar has major share in export quality fresh water fish of Sindh. Local fish mongers sell fish according to variety and taste. Kur`ro being the prime quality is more expensive than any other species. Other expensive qualities include Shakur and Chito.

Along with fishing, agriculture and maalmandi (cattle-keeping) are chief occupations of Makhi people. Some run chai (tea) shops. Only a few of them have government jobs (low-grade govt jobs). Makhi area is the outpost of Achro Thar. So a visit there makes your trip more experienced. It is a pity that Makhi has no basie facilities. There's no electricity, telephone and postal service what to talk of Internet facility, which over the years has become necessity for tourists to keep in touch with their near and dear ones around the world. Shops are mainly makeshift stalls selling most basic food. You will find some charpai hotels mostly selling tea or cold drinks. For food either you have to cook yourself or take services of someone like Mola Buksh Mallah.

Chotiyaron reservoir, which was inaugurated by the then Prime Minister Mir Zafarullah Khan Jamali in February 2003 is surrounded and supplied by Makhi waters. Statistics pertaining to the total storage capacity of the reservoir, collected from the official sources, reveals that when filled to full capacity it will store 0.71maf of water. Though its existence is controversial only because of seepage problems and serious threats to game of the area, but it is fish yield that will enhance from 525 tonnes to 4200 tonnes per annum. It means more work opportunities for local fishermen. But fishermen of the area express their fears of being denied of their rights by authorities as in past.

Fishing is a popular sport as well. It appeals to different social classes. Local elites arrange hunting parties. They invite influential friends from different parts of the country. Sodho Khan Mallah, a local character, is famous for arranging such parties when he was Irrigation Daroga. As a result he enjoys good relations with them. Even today one finds hundred beddings for guests!

Lakes of Bakkar and Vadhki are ideal for sport fishing, while commercial pond fishing is available at almost all lakes. Commercial fishing is also available at private fish farms owned by locals. Until 1999, fishing except for private fish farms was under direct government control, but under the Musharraf government, it was given on contracts. So you don't need any licence, if you are on move for sport fishing, rather you have to take permission from contractors. The seasonal hunt continues throughout the year except June, July, August and September. The government has banned sport fishing for two months ie June and July as this is the breeding season.

There are about 300 boats mostly used for commercial fishing. Only two launches are available both owned by locals. There's no contribution of tourist department. Visitors who want to enjoy boating, contact with owners. The lack of water in recent years saw less fish and less boating activities resulting in majority of boatmen sitting idle.

The government should consider converting Makhi into an all-season tourist resort. The ministry of tourism has to go beyond mere lip service. It should give priority to the construction and development of recreational spots in view of its potential for raising the number of tourists. It is not charity as Makhi is a natural tourist attraction. It has archaeological sites and nature in all its variety. However, what lacks is infrastructure. The whole marketing philosophy should be aimed to provide a top-class retreat for high income. A few hotels and motels are needed, if Makhi is to see more visitors.

Kur`ro has found a place in religious belief too. It is considered Lakshmi - the goddess of wealth by some factions of the Hindu community.

After loitering around and exploring the available area will praise nature but curse authorities when they visit the area. They will definitely enjoy Makhi and adjacent areas no matter what they look like!

Copyright Business Recorder, 2005


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